Easter is over, and you are now the proud owner of an Easter bunny that should live to be around ten years old! Notice, I said you are
a proud owner of a bunny, not your child.
That cute, little ball of fur is going to need as much love, care and attention as any other pet.
I am going to give you a quick run down of the most important things to learn about your new bunny, and show you the products that I use to care for my sweet bunnies.
#1- The number one thing to remember is that you need to take care of the
daily maintenance of your rabbit, this is not a child’s responsibility.
#2- Rabbits do not like to be hot or cold. They love being indoor pets who get to visit outside.
If they are going to live outside, make sure they will be able to be out of the cage in a safe environment for several hours everyday. If they are outside, make sure their hutch will be in the shade all day during the summer months, and be prepared to provide frozen water bottles and tiles for them to lay on during the summer. Rabbits can have heat strokes and die quickly during summer. On the hottest days, be willing to move them indoors. The same for the winter, make sure to provide protection from the cold and wind. Provide a warm, snuggly blanket, and heated water source. Be prepared to move them indoors on extremely cold days and nights.
#3- Rabbits need a fresh water supply daily. If you are using a bowl, I would recommend
changing it a couple times a day. If you are using a bottle, change it every other day, at least. (If they are outdoor rabbits, change bottle daily based on temperature outside)
#3- Food is required constantly. Their metabolism is so fast, that they need access to a food source all the time. Filling their bowls every couple days is not an option. I suggest an unlimited supply of fresh timothy hay, a dish of pellets, and a selection of fresh romaine lettuces, rabbit safe fruits, and rabbit safe vegetables, daily. I also give treats of dried papaya to train rabbits to return to their cage on command. They absolutely love it, and fresh/dried papaya, and fresh pineapple is the best way to help prevent wool block in their gut, which can lead to gastric stasis.
#4- Rabbits are extremely clean animals, there should not be the need for a bath. If you think their cage stinks, so do they! The easiest option is to begin litter box training them immediately. This makes cleaning their cages easier, composting the litter easier, and keeps them from laying in their own urine and pellets.
#5- Rabbits need to be groomed. Their nails need to be kept trimmed. They need to be brushed, weekly at least. (I suggest finding a good rabbit vet in your area soon- many rabbits who do not chew on their toys, will eventually need to have their teeth trimmed, and this can only be done at a rabbit savvy vet’s office.)
#6- Spend time getting to know your rabbit. Learn that it has its own personality, with likes and dislikes. This precious animal is not like a dog who will love you immediately. You have to win a rabbits trust, and this only comes by caring for it daily, loving it, and respecting its wishes.
#7- Once you know your rabbit, you will learn to notice their habits. If you notice that your rabbit is lethargic, not eating, not drinking, etc., take it to the vet immediately. Rabbits will become sick and deteriorate rapidly. Often times, waiting 24 hours means you waited too long.
#8- Providing a healthy diet and keeping them well groomed will greatly reduce the risk of your rabbit becoming sick.
#9- Your rabbit is a highly intelligent animal who needs interaction, toys, and a playmate. If you cannot be your rabbits playmate, consider adopting another and bonding them! (Spay and neuter recommended- unless you want babies)- You will be surprised at just how smart they are, and here is a trick, the smarter you treat them, the smarter they will become.
#10- Rabbits should not be on a cage with a wire bottom. Their feet cannot tolerate this long term, and they will develop severe sores, a.k.a. sore hock. My rabbits love nothing more than the snuggly blankets that I have on the floor of their cages.
#11- This was supposed to stop at 10, but oh well….. Rabbits love to chew! Anything on the floor belongs to them, meaning, shoes, computer cords, phone cords, remote controls, perhaps even furniture legs. Rabbit proof everything for awhile until you see how your rabbit is about chewing.
#12- Finally, Rabbits reach puberty around six months old. They will become just like teenagers, irritable, moody, snappy, etc. They may even try to nip at you. They become territorial, and this is the point when you should research and decide about spay/neuter options in your area. This is also the point when most rabbits end up in the shelters. Please, Please, Please, do not abandon your bunny. They will return to their sweet selves around twelve months old. Just give them time, and try to understand how many hormones are surging through their tiny little bodies.
SORRY! Just kidding, one more thing!
Please remember a hutch/cage is not enough! The more freedom your rabbit has the happier they will be! Also, they need a large cage. My dwarf lionhead is only 2 pounds, but I purchased a huge cage for him, and he is out of the cage more than in it. Think about it like this. Your rabbit needs to be able to stand up on his legs completely and not touch the top. Also, they should be able to take two hops in the cage, as well as lay down and stretch completely out. Being in a cage too small for them will cause them to be stiff, sore, and develop bone/hip degenerative diseases later in their lives.
Here is the cage I use for one of my babies!
Remember, your rabbit will grow deeply attached to you. As they get older, they generally get more dependent on you, more snuggly, etc. Give them time to grow out of their baby/teenager stage, and you will have a buddy for the rest of their little life.
